bobman Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 you really might want to look at a safety setter that was designed by Ron hes a trapper http://www.twincitytooling.com/safetysetter.html I posted this last year with the guys phone number he's outside of Stevens Point Wisconsin the release tools cost $25 each last year including shipping and his phone number is 715-347-7311 this thing could save your dogs life its light and fits easily in a vest pocket Gone hunting came up with an idea to also carry a loop to go around your boot with a s hook on it so you could more easily hold the bottom jaw down quick when you use this tool maybe he will chime in Link to post Share on other sites
Pomoxis Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 you really might want to look at a safety setter that was designed by Ron hes a trapper http://www.twincitytooling.com/safetysetter.html I posted this last year with the guys phone number he's outside of Stevens Point Wisconsin the release tools cost $25 each last year including shipping and his phone number is 715-347-7311 this thing could save your dogs life its light and fits easily in a vest pocket Gone hunting came up with an idea to also carry a loop to go around your boot with a s hook on it so you could more easily hold the bottom jaw down quick when you use this tool maybe he will chime in It looked to me that he either stepped on the beavers tail or on the trap itself to get enough leverage to squeeze the spring. How would you do that with a squirming dog jn there. 33o's really scare me cause tbey are so strong. Link to post Share on other sites
bobman Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 That was the problem GH saw and I think I remember he was going to use a s hook on a loop around his boot to make it easier I dont have all the answers just thought this releaser was fast and easy to have with you I hope I never have to use one Link to post Share on other sites
dogrunner Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 www.fntpost.com has a trapsetter that is cheaper and does the same thing, or you could make your own from similar materials. If the dog was in the trap you could put your foot in the corner of the side you are doing first, take your other hand hold down on thetop of the trap while pulling the trapsetter up. Then switch to other side. But unless you are real close I doubt you are going to save the dog. The biggest traps I have are single spring 220s and the animals caught in them did not seem to last very long. Link to post Share on other sites
nobirdshere Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 Has anyone tried simply cutting these with a medium bolt cutters? I am headed to the local farm supply tonight and may buy a 220 to try it. While I would prefer not to, I would gladly add a bolt cutters to my game bag if it will cut through springs. It still seems that getting a squirming and panicked dog out of one of these would be tough with rope or tie, although will add some a few zip ties to my vest as well. Link to post Share on other sites
MDash2 Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 It's a real concern and nobody in our hunting group feels comfortable with the 330 release steps. I could be wrong but I don't see the rope option as a practical solution with a dog caught in the trap struggling for life. I'll be curious to hear about the zip ties as it seems to be the better approach assuming it works. Link to post Share on other sites
Virgil Kane Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 www.fntpost.com has a trapsetter that is cheaper and does the same thing, or you could make your own from similar materials. If the dog was in the trap you could put your foot in the corner of the side you are doing first, take your other hand hold down on thetop of the trap while pulling the trapsetter up. Then switch to other side. But unless you are real close I doubt you are going to save the dog. The biggest traps I have are single spring 220s and the animals caught in them did not seem to last very long. Thanks for the info. Ordered 2 of these and at less that $10 each it seems worth it. Also got some cable cutters for the occasional snar I seem to run into but lucky for my pooch hasn't got caught in. Virgil Link to post Share on other sites
Oriongs Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 Nobirdshere,,, check the link in the 2nd, posting right after Brads, original post,,, don Link to post Share on other sites
nobirdshere Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 Thank you. That really seems like the most viable solution in a crisis. Link to post Share on other sites
shinbone Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 dogrunner - Thanks for the head's-up on the inexpensive pull-chain-setter. http://www.fntpost.com/Product....+Setter I just ordered four of them, two for each hunting vest. They will replace the nylon rope I use to carry, and will permanently ride in each back pocket along with the wire cutters for snares. I have a 220 and 330 conibear at home that I use to practice opening. Even with the right tool, it takes a little practice to do it quickly, and I don't want my first lesson to be while my dog is just a minute from dying. Could be a mute point if it is a 330, though, but at least I can try rather than just helplessly standing there. I pray my dog never has a run-in with any kind of trap, let alone a conibear. Link to post Share on other sites
Treerooster Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 How long does the twist tie need to be to be able to start it with the trap springs open? Could not find that info anywhere. Link to post Share on other sites
shinbone Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 I can see how a big zip tie would hold a trap in the open position once opened, but has anyone actually used a zip tie to open a 220 or 330 conibear? From my limited experience, getting enough leverage to force one of these traps open is really hard, and I am not sure a zip would be all that helpful in providing that needed leverage? Link to post Share on other sites
Pete F Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 While I don't agree with the source, this is a good guide on how to open a conibear. Two big zipties would be easier. http://www.trapfreeoregon.org/page3.html Link to post Share on other sites
shinbone Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Pete F - Good linfo on that link. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
dogrunner Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 www.fntpost.com has a trapsetter that is cheaper and does the same thing, or you could make your own from similar materials. If the dog was in the trap you could put your foot in the corner of the side you are doing first, take your other hand hold down on thetop of the trap while pulling the trapsetter up. Then switch to other side. But unless you are real close I doubt you are going to save the dog. The biggest traps I have are single spring 220s and the animals caught in them did not seem to last very long. Thanks for the info. Ordered 2 of these and at less that $10 each it seems worth it. Also got some cable cutters for the occasional snar I seem to run into but lucky for my pooch hasn't got caught in. Virgil Glad you and shinbone got what you needed and I hope you never have to use them. They have a good show on tv about trapping thats how I found them. There shop is about 4 hrs north of me. Link to post Share on other sites
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