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Yes the mounts can be easily removed get the picatinny one and only buy the mount for the ruger
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Fastfire III and Ruger mount ordered. I figure if it doesn't suit me I have plenty of other things I can use it on.
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I bought my fastfire III with a picatiny but I also intend to use it with their 1" scope ring where the fastfire is mounted directly to a plate on the ring.

I intend to use mine as a backup for whatever rifle/slug shotgun I'm using for quick close in opportunities inside 40 yards or so.

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i saw the ring mount and i might use something like that if i move it to an AR. Put it on top of one with a stronger optic and have the best of both worlds.
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One of my son in laws told me about AR reflex backups. Burris sells a 1x4 scope that has a reflex on top using, I think, a scope ring mount.

There are also 45 degree picatiny offsets available to mount the fastfire on the side of a rifle scope.

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My go-to Ar already has a decent optic set-up. 1-4.5x optic with red/green illumination. At 1x you can easily just look through it both eyes open and its nearly as good as a reflex. Then I have 45 degree offset dueck defense irons as back-ups.

The 45 degree mount for the fastfire sounds interesting, will need to look into that too.

I'm excited to get it tomorrow!

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45 degree offsets I have seen aren't fastfire specific. They are setup for anything with Weaver type grooves.
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So I got it, and think I am going to like it!

I couldn't mount it in the rear slot like the instructions say b/c there is a very slight (maybe 1mm difference) between the part over the cylinder and the barrel, but it mounts fine on the front notch.

RugerSBHBurris1_zpsc26e3590.jpg

I really like the mount b/c if I remove the fastfire iii, I can still use the open sights. They are high enough to see "over" just the mount. Good for backup in case it goes dead and I'm battery-less or something.

RugerSBHBurris2_zpsb3b83ced.jpg

Here's the final product without and with the shield overtop. Does anyone really use that shield thing? Is it useful in certain conditions?

RugerSBHBurris3_zpsfd121490.jpg

RugerSBHBurris4_zpsb1059b0f.jpg

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I am going to try the Biachi HUSH system for scoped revolvers. It's ordered and will be here tomorrow.

The Kodiak is a beautiful holster, but the Bianchi got great reviews and was much cheaper (though still not 'cheap').

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Had the Bianchi didn't like it just never felt right.  After I sold the Ruger and went to a TC I preferred a single swivel on the grip and set it up with a sling it worked much better for my style.  Truth be told your SBH has me craving one again an I have one located for a fair price waiting for me to pick it up.  Seeing as how my shoulder is still sore and I can not hold up a long gun I may have to hunt with a handgun again this year.  :D
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I think this Bianchi Ranger HUSH is going to work for me and my purposes:

BianchiRangerHUSH_zpsb7f5ea67.jpg

Took me a little bit to figure out the adjustments and get it adjusted to suit. I'm pretty small so there was a lot of extra straps hanging everywhere. Once I set it to fit and it felt comfortable I riveted a couple of the extra straps together and/or safety pinned some extra. Now I just throw it over my shoulder, stick the belt through the belt loop and go. I could probably carry it without the belt loop through, but it does feel a little more secure to me that way.

With just the 2-3oz fastfire on top, even though the gun is still heavy, it might even be light enough to pass on the shoulder strap and just carry on belt. Not sure, but a few times during 'fitting' I had very little weight bearing load on the strap and it was pretty much hanging off my belt and it seemed OK. I do wear good, heavy gunbelts everyday though.

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I used to carry mine on the belt for me the shoulder strap was worthless when you get all your hunting clothes on which is how you should adjust it to fit.

You should check out the Handgun Hunter forum

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I very well may check out that forum thanks. For now though I'm going to post my experience today and ask for everyone's insight. I finally shot the SBH Hunter!

The upside is... that thing is a blast to shoot. I was tentative about recoil but honestly it has no more than many of the 357 mag I shoot (Ruger LCR, J-Frame Model 60, Speed Six). It's also a different type of recoil on this gun. As someone mentioned, it really does "rock in your hand". It was actually a joy to shoot. I shot an entire box (50 rounds) split between Winchester white box and magtech. No pain, no issues whatsoever. It was pretty awesome.

The downside is... I am nowhere near ready to hunt with this yet and I'm kind of stuck with how I know I am getting better or not if I can't zero this Burris. Basically the 50 rounds was filled with ups and downs. I shot 3 at a time groups, so about 16 different groups. Some groups were great (1.5" at 25 yards), others were far from great (I'm talking 12" groups at 25 yards).

First 3 shots through it, with the Burris untouched, had one tear the bullseye right out of the target, 2 others were on the center line L/R, but high 2" or so. Of course I wanted perfection so I tried to lower the Burris dot so I was dead-on at 25, then the plan was to move back to 50. Next 6 rounds were all over the place. The 12" groups I mentioned?

Switched to Magtech ammo, new target, new group of 3. Nice 2" group, perfect U/D, stringing a little to the right, but I can deal with that. Next 6 rounds of Magtech, all over the board again.

This is how the entire day played out. Real nice group, try to adjust Burris, bullets flying everywhere for the next 6, then magically back on. Ultimately I didn't get it zero'd. I took 3 shots from 50 yards just because and 2 hit paper plate size target, one barely missed, all were low, but without getting zero at 25 I didn't want to blow $1 round to shoot more at 50.

So I guess I have a few questions:

1) Is there a way to lock the Burris zero once I think I have it? The adjustment screws turn very easily and I couldn't distinguish real good "clicks" either way. I guess I am worried the recoil is impacting it since they seem to turn so easily? Am I missing anything with getting the Burris zero'd?

2) Everything I read said this gun is supposed to be super accurate and good to 100 yards pretty much, but are there "bad ones" that just do not shoot that straight? Is there a reason my first 3 shots would have been dead on, pretty much, but then after that erratic. Can a gun start spreading bullets around when it gets hot? I put all 50 round downrange in maybe an hour or so time.

3) If the problem isn't the site, but rather me being an experienced big bore, long barrel revolver shooter (I shoot a lot of other handguns but not many at 25-50 yard ranges), then how do I ever know if I am getting better? I.e. if I can't distinguish if its me or the optic? Do I really need to get someone else to zero this for me, then go practice? B/c now I can't distinguish when I'm doing things right and getting good groups, wrong and creating 12" groups, or maybe getting lucky with my groups that are 1.5", etc.

4) Or maybe my expectations are just too high for a red dot? I got 3 MOA dot, so at 25 yards its covering less than 1" of target, but are they just not 1-2" group accurate, even at 25 yards? If that's the case (i.e. I can expect 6" groups even when practiced) then I think the reddot may be destined for something else (AR, 10/22, Crossbow) and I may be in for a scope of some sort. I don't like to shoot at big game with a 6" margin of error.

Thoughts are welcome even if they are to tell me I am just a horrible shooter with this gun right now. LOL.

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A couple other questions I forgot I wanted to ask:

Does the Burris have an auto-off function of some sort or snooze so to speak? A few times now I have luckily caught myself not turning it off (after a few minutes of sitting it down or holstering it). I am bound to burn through a battery sometime b/c I forget it's on.

Also, related to that "snooze" I mentioned, a few times I was shooting, the red dot seemed to "disappear" even though I swear I was looking right down the optic same as I was before. I had to really move the gun around shake it a little, and ultimately saw the red dot again. Did it really "snooze" off? Can the red dot really get outside the optic that easily? I thought the point of this v. a scope was I didn't have to have my eyes perfectly lined up but a couple times I may not have I couldn't see the dot.

Lastly, on the Burris there is a white line on the body of the site, below the red dot screen. Do I need to be lining the red dot up with this vertical line so the red dot is in the center of the screen. Does it matter where the red dot is on the screen. I tried to line it up most shots, but some I forgot b/c I thought this was just a look at the red dot and it will be on target kind of thing. If I need to line the red dot up in the center, above the vertical line, now I am back to two inputs to aiming, just  like with open sites (front site, rear site). Red dot, vertical line red dot must be above?

And sorry I just realized I've been spelling "site" a lot v. "sight" but its shorter so I don't care. :)

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