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Oriongs

Motor Milk??

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Oriongs

OK, been thinking of trying some "Seafoam," motor milk on my 2002 Z-R chevy S-10, V6 4.3.  Have done some checking, with somewhat confusing results.  The major issue is oil usage.  No big deal really as usually 4-6 thousand miles during bear season.  Had the real seal replaced when the clutch was replaced.  Not leaking from the crankcase, or plug.  Leaves no oil stain on the floor.  Figure it is going out the tail pipe.  Otherwise starts good runs fine, mpg, so-so depending on how hard I push it.  Most miles on gravel, two tracks, etc.  180 degree thermo, power stearing, power  brakes, 5 speed manual.   So what has been others experience with Seafoam?

 

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MNice

Not sure about Seafoam but I'd try ATP AT-205 Re-Seal first. 

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dogrunner

How much oil is it using?  Try running a 10w-40 it don't burn off as easy. 

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BlacknTan

4.3?? Most probably valve stem seals. Easily replaced yourself. Take an old spark plug, remove porcelain and drill and tap, or weld in an air fitting. Hook to compressor for each cylinder.

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airmedic1

In my experience, you can't fix a mechanical problem with something from a can.  If a seal is leaking you MAY be able temporarily "swell" the seal to slow the leak but you can never really fix the problem from a product in a can.  If you could fix oil usage with a chemical from a can, mechanics would never overhaul engines.  You can try a higher viscosity oil as suggested such as 10w40 or a good 15w40. That might help as possibly could replacing the valve seals.

good luck

 

AM

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Rockdoc
3 hours ago, BlacknTan said:

4.3?? Most probably valve stem seals. Easily replaced yourself. Take an old spark plug, remove porcelain and drill and tap, or weld in an air fitting. Hook to compressor for each cylinder.

I've personally used this method myself and it works great. Another way is to fill the cylinder with stiff rope (such as kernmantle rope) via the spark plug hole and then rotate the engine by hand cranking so that the coiled rope is pushed up against the valves to hold them in place while the seals are installed. FWIW, I've never used the second method but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work, you'd just have to be careful that the rope didn't knot inside the cylinder.

 

Steve

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Guest
4 hours ago, airmedic1 said:

In my experience, you can't fix a mechanical problem with something from a can.  If a seal is leaking you MAY be able temporarily "swell" the seal to slow the leak but you can never really fix the problem from a product in a can.  If you could fix oil usage with a chemical from a can, mechanics would never overhaul engines.  You can try a higher viscosity oil as suggested such as 10w40 or a good 15w40. That might help as possibly could replacing the valve seals.

good luck

 

AM

A 15w40 is most likely going to be rated as a diesel oil though. 

 

Otherwise I agree completely that something in a can is at best a bandaid. 

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dogrunner
6 hours ago, NECarson said:

A 15w40 is most likely going to be rated as a diesel oil though. 

 

Otherwise I agree completely that something in a can is at best a bandaid. 

Amsoil makes a 15-40 with gas/diesel specs also a 20-50 for certain motor applications.  Might be a bandaid but for that truck it might serve its purpose for now. 

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Guest
14 hours ago, dogrunner said:

Amsoil makes a 15-40 with gas/diesel specs also a 20-50 for certain motor applications.  Might be a bandaid but for that truck it might serve its purpose for now. 

Yeah... Schaffer and Brad Penn do as well I know. The average options at a parts store I'd be sure and check though. 

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Guest

Just struck me... They are all racing/performance oriented oils... 

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