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barna

Jeep or 4 runner ?

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Birdcountry70

Not saying your mechanic is anything but honorable but I'll tell you a similar story that happened to me .  We had a 2002. Suburban with almost 180k on it which had been an excellent vehicle. I noticed that the front tires were showing a slight bit of uneven wear so I took it in for an alignment.  The mechanic looked at it and came out and told me the front end was shot. Upper and lower ball joints, pitman arms wheel bearings blah blah blah...$1680.   well I figured the rig was only worth maybe $2500 bucks so I decided I couldn't justify spending that much money on it.  After talking to a couple of gearhead type friends I decided I could do the work myself and they would help if needed.  I ordered all the parts I was told  were bad and after a long weekend in the garage I had replaced a whole pile of perfectly fine parts with new ones. none showed much wear. The only thing wrong was one of the ball joints had a cracked rubber boot.  The only good thing about it is that I learned how to do the job myself. Next time I will first learn how to tell if the mechanic is full of crap. Lesson learned.

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barna

The mechanic is standup guy have been using him for many years, he is being honest.  One the jeep the engine 4.7L runs great but is using oil, about a qt per 500 miles.  I am also concerned about the transmission, no issues yet but you never know. My last jeep was 98 grand Cherokee limited, with the 5.9L engine, it ran great and the transmission started to slip at 260K.  I hate to put 3K and have another big item go.  There is also considerable under body rust that is starting to show up.  I have a few hunts planned out west so I hate to have a break down in the middle of KS or ND. 

 

I will test drive both and see which one feels better.

 

Barna

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Moomps

I just purchased my 3rd Grand Cherokee - this one a 2012 Overland with the Hemi. It's got about 80k on it and I also bought a good warranty just in case.  So far I am very happy with this one just like I was with the other 2.  My first GC was a mid 90's model and the second was a 2008.  Also loved both of those.  I always seem to come back to Jeeps, so you know which one I'd get.

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12 hours ago, Birdcountry70 said:

Not saying your mechanic is anything but honorable but I'll tell you a similar story that happened to me .  We had a 2002. Suburban with almost 180k on it which had been an excellent vehicle. I noticed that the front tires were showing a slight bit of uneven wear so I took it in for an alignment.  The mechanic looked at it and came out and told me the front end was shot. Upper and lower ball joints, pitman arms wheel bearings blah blah blah...$1680.   well I figured the rig was only worth maybe $2500 bucks so I decided I couldn't justify spending that much money on it.  After talking to a couple of gearhead type friends I decided I could do the work myself and they would help if needed.  I ordered all the parts I was told  were bad and after a long weekend in the garage I had replaced a whole pile of perfectly fine parts with new ones. none showed much wear. The only thing wrong was one of the ball joints had a cracked rubber boot.  The only good thing about it is that I learned how to do the job myself. Next time I will first learn how to tell if the mechanic is full of crap. Lesson learned.

In many cases, it's not that the mechanic is full of crap, it's that his name is attached to it, as well as your safety. And if you don't really know what you're looking at, things that look like they are fine can be in bad shape. 

 

Did it drive better when you were done? 

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chilly460

Frontend work is a "while you're at it" scenario.  You have to take a lot of it apart in most cases, so "while you're at it", makes sense to throw in new bushings/ball joints/tie rod ends/etc.  Least that's how I look at it, especially if you're paying for labor, they already have it apart so makes sense to replace if they have any wear on them at all.   

 

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26 minutes ago, chilly460 said:

Frontend work is a "while you're at it" scenario.  You have to take a lot of it apart in most cases, so "while you're at it", makes sense to throw in new bushings/ball joints/tie rod ends/etc.  Least that's how I look at it, especially if you're paying for labor, they already have it apart so makes sense to replace if they have any wear on them at all.   

 

Yep. If I have to replace one piece, I'm going to replace them all. 

 

And even if the rest are "pretty good" they will accelerate wear on the new one. 

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barna
30 minutes ago, chilly460 said:

Frontend work is a "while you're at it" scenario.  You have to take a lot of it apart in most cases, so "while you're at it", makes sense to throw in new bushings/ball joints/tie rod ends/etc.  Least that's how I look at it, especially if you're paying for labor, they already have it apart so makes sense to replace if they have any wear on them at all.   

 

This was his (my mechanic's)  point exactly, he offered me just the minimum to replace only the parts that caused the alignment problem for $1200 but he said that it would be safer to do as much as possible. 

 

If I am being honest, there is a part of me that is looking for an excuse to get a different vehicle.  Looks like I have a good one. :D

 

Barna

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topdog1961

Keep in mind the Toyota is going to hold its resale value like no other vehicle. It’s easy to say this is immaterial because you are going to drive either till it drops. IMO that will be a lot longer for the Toy, and even then, it will have more value. I sold a 91 Toy pickup 5 years ago that you could see through one bedside and out the other, and you could look through the drivers door bottom and watch the road go by. I still sold it for $2500 on the first day I listed it because it ran good and the 4x4 was flawless, and it was a Toyota. 

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Speaks

Hard call to make with given information, I have become more and more biased toward Toyota though in general from my experience. I gave my boss a ride in my 08 Tundra with 170k on it not long ago and he was commenting on how he was amazed that it didnt have blue tooth and that he didnt think they made them that way any more. I pointed out that it was 11 years old with that many miles and he was shocked, he thought it was a 2-3 year old truck. I have driven Fords, Chevy, GMC, Mercury, Dodge, Buick, and Jeep vehicles and there was zero mistaking a 10 year old vehicle for a 3 year old one in any of those brands. 

 

No real comment on the engine part though that is a big HP difference. Whether that matters or not is debatable. My next vehicle purchase is likely a new 4 runner for my wife, I am next in line for a new car but I would place a large wager that my Tundra holds out much longer than her Kia does. 

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john mcg

I think the Nissan Pathfinder should be considered in these conversations.

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Birdcountry70
2 hours ago, NECarson said:

In many cases, it's not that the mechanic is full of crap, it's that his name is attached to it, as well as your safety. And if you don't really know what you're looking at, things that look like they are fine can be in bad shape. 

 

Did it drive better when you were done? 

No.  It seemed to drive just fine before and after. Just needed an alignment. A couple of more knowledgeable friends that I showed the parts to agreed that he probably just spotted the torn boot and figured they were all bad.  Or didn't care and just wanted the work.  I don't use that shop anymore.

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topdog1961

I had a similar thing happen in the mid 80s when I took my VW Scirocco to Sears automotive for an alignment when the tires were wearing unevenly. They put it on the rack then came out and broke the bad news to me, it couldn’t be aligned because the frame was bent. But here, take this card and take it to this shop, they do great work and bring it back here, then we can align it. I said that the car hadn’t been in an accident and they said “these new unibody cars only need a big pothole to bend the frame.”  

 

But it I was suspicious and took it to another alignment shop for a second opinion, and they aligned it no problem. I got to thinking that was a perfect scam: no parts to replace, just keep it a couple days and claim they straightened the frame, which would be invisible to any type inspection.  Charge me a bunch of $ for nothing, then split it with the Sears shop. I heard a year later or so that Sears was being investigated for auto repair fraud, including replacing good batteries.  I never shopped there again and didn’t shed a tear when they went belly up, even many years later. 

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Dogwood
10 hours ago, barna said:

 

 

I will test drive both and see which one feels better.

 

Barna

 

Now you're getting somewhere!  

 

Curious have you had any other major repair issues with the Jeep?  Did you buy it new?

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barna
1 hour ago, Dogwood said:

 

Now you're getting somewhere!  

 

Curious have you had any other major repair issues with the Jeep?  Did you buy it new?

Bought it used with 55K miles about 9 years ago.  the only major issue was the broken right drive shaft in the rear axle about 220K, it was my fault, I changed the rear brakes a few months earlier and didn't get the break pad back on right and it was putting the drag on the right side and somehow the uneven tension caused the shaft to break.  At least that was the mechanics explanation.   I did both front hub bearings last year, radiator year before.  But nothing major.  The greatest PIA work was changing out the heater core, darn near had to take the entire dash out, but found a way to cheat the repair by cutting a weld spot on the glove box bracket and sliding the core out without the dash removal. 

Water pump 3 year ago, and the belt tensioner pulley last year. 

I did have a few electrical problems, one was a spread terminal in the relay box that caused the fuel pump to stop working, and one corroded terminal on the transfer case connector.  The harness was not protected and one of the wires was nicked by something and it corroded into the connector and the terminal needed cleaning.  This is such a Chrysler thing, the entire wiring in underside should be protected even for a normal vehicle let alone a jeep that is made to go off road. 

 

it still runs great but for how long I don't know.

 

Barna

 

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barna

OK so looks like I am going with a 4 runner, the dealer made a good offer and they also put brand new tires on it.  At 61K miles its a great deal and I liked the way it drove, does not have the pick up of the V8 in the jeep but not bad.  I like the 2H to 4H and 4L selection, my jeep was 4H all the time with 4L as needed. 

 

I drove the grand Cherokee limited with the 5.7 Hemi, it had great power but the suspension was too soft for my liking, it was not trail rated so maybe that was the difference.  It just didn't feel right. 

 

Barna  

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